Week 13 - This must be cruising.                                              Saturday 17th August to Sunday 25th August

Since leaving Oslo on Wednesday 14th to putting our anchor down in Hemskilen yesterday afternoon we have moved a total of 197 miles over 12 days - thats an average of just 16 miles a day. For us a new record of slowness and whilst the sun is shining here in Norway we are definitely trying to make the most of it.

081713 32 Back on board and elated

We stayed in Stavern for four nights whilst two lows moved across the area. The weather literally changed from miserable wet and windy to beautiful sunshine between each passing low. The highlight of our stay in Stavern was to give the opportunity to Kristine the Stavern Harbourmaster to go up our mast and to take some footage of the marina and surrounding waterways. Her excitement and enthusiasm was somewhat infectious and her ascending of the mast created entertainment for everyone in the marina. The photographer from the local newspaper was in attendance and took footage of her leaving Katherine - not the way our guests normally leave - leaping from our boom. Her son created a great short movie so if you'd like to see one happy harbour master, the view from our mast and featuring Andrew and Darb click the link below-  http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XCdIW6R1AII 

081913 16 The Scottish Terrier from the Princess 65 so much character

From Stavern we continued west to Kragero - on local advise we were told of a shortcut through the Lungesund passage - yes we checked the depth the width but alas we forgot to check for overhead cables. Half way through the scenic channel we noticed overhead cables which on closer inspection of the charts were at a height of 26m - our mast is 32m - a u turn was required and we continued on zig zagging our way through the maze of rocks into the very pretty town of Kragero. Here we found ourselves in a very empty marina but alongside the Princess 62 with the cutest Scottish Terrier that we had seen in Stavern the day before.

From Kragero it was on to Lyngor - a group of 4 islands - where there are no cars and the main street lined by white houses is literally the chanel between the islands. Lyngor is very much a residential island and our walking was always cut short by a lovely white picket fence and gate despite locals telling us it would be okay to continue through and around. 

082113 9 Ronny the shop bar and cafe owner  Lyngor

We met a few of the residents who confirmed that most of the houses have been in the families for many generations dating back to the 1800s when the island was home for well to do ship owners and merchants. We also met Ronny and Kerry the local publicans, shopkeeper and entertainment organisers for the island - they had taken a sea change literally 8 years ago from Oslo. The season with the sun had been good for them but they advised owning a business on Lyngor was not for the financial viability for in summer you could be a millionaire but by winters end back on welfare!

082213 4 Katherine alongside Risor Guest Harbour082213 18 Evening sky Risor

Next town stop was Risor - also known for its white painted buildings along the harbour. Here we managed to find a great track to a lookout overlooking the town and Katherine in the marina. The guest harbour was so empty reflecting the end of the season. Would be amazing to be in the town when the wooden boat festival is on but I doubt we would find space! 

We helped an elderly gentleman get out of his sons fishing boat in the afternoon - he was 89 and his knees had given out on him obviously from sitting out there for hours. He was so happy and positive and appreciative of our assistance. His only comment - Im fit and healthy but the body doesn't agree - get out there and live life while you can - guess thats what we are doing. Once he was in his sons car his wife - a young 87 year old - proceeded to walk back up the hill to their house no car required. Now thats how we'd all like to be at 87.

Today we are sitting on anchor in Hemskilen - no longer heading west we are heading slowly towards Sweden. Logic would have said sail for Sweden from Lyngor but we have decided to poke our way a little further northeast to Frederikstad which we passed on the way out of the Oslo fjord.

We are cruising - being treated to some amazing sunsets, some beautiful sunshine and not needing to make too many miles at the moment - could get use to this.

(Click for more photos)

© SV Katherine 2018      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Isle Tabarca Spain