130614 - Week 6 Stavenger to Trondheim - Time to start cruising

5th June - 11th June 

It has been a week of making miles but also beginning to enjoy some beautiful cities of the west coast of Norway. Today we arrive into Trondheim around 390 nm north of Stavanger which we left on Monday morning. 

140607 7 A 1956 Classic140608 1 Brunch with Kristin and Lars Stavanger

Our initial view of Stavanger was tarnished by a rude harbourmaster and a drunk visitor who decided to board our boat at 430am in the morning and start undoing our lines - he wanted to be helpful and assist us to cast off. Andrew cast him off with some speed as rising at 430am had not been part of our mornings plan. Things however improved vastly as we enjoyed the company of Lars and Kristin Bilstad from Oslo who happened to be in town, walked the old town with its cobblestone streets that were filled with musicians playing as part of a festival, admired the collection of cars presented in the town centre by the Norwegian Corvette Club and enjoyed the company of Eric a sailor currently sailing solo on his HalbergRassy 62. Sharing stories of Eric's docking procedure in harbours made me feel relieved that we at least have two of us onboard. 

140607 11 Erics HR62
140609 5 Heading from Stavanger to Alesund Flying the new A1
140611 1 Alesund Art Nouveau style city

From Stavanger we made an overnight run to Alesund. The weather gods were again kind and although cold we didn't have to tolerate rain - that was to come. The highlight of the overnight passage was definitely the setting sun at 11pm at night, followed by a sighting of a whale and our first glacier as we passed Hardangerfjorden. 

Our new A1 sail again proved its worth and we flew it for over 10 hours of the thirty hour passage. Given the brolga on this sail is even bigger than the last we have decided that going forth this sail should be called "The Big Bird" sail - A1 is way too technical.

Alesund was a real delight to pull into. We found ourselves looking down the harbour into the town centre - as someone described it to us - perhaps the Venice of Norway. Alesund is renown for its Art Nouveau building style. Like Napier in New Zealand with its Art Decor buildings, Alesund apparently suffered a great fire in 1904 and was rebuilt with foreign assistance almost entirely over a three year period. Its buildings became a time capsule for that period. 

140611 12 The View of Alesund from Fjellstua 418 steps up looking south east

One of the "things to do" in Alesund is to walk the 418 steps to Fjellstua - a lookout point that provides a view of both Alesund and its surrounding fjords. If time allows we look forward to returning to Alesund on our return journey south but priority at the moment is to get north to Lofiten as quickly as possible then cruise back. 

From Alesund we headed out north to Trondheim stopping overnight in Brekstad a harbour  just 30miles from Trondheim.

140612 3 What to do when it rains scrub your deck of course

 Our run from Alesund was mother nature reminding us of what sailing in northern waters is about - cold and wet and changeable. We saw winds from 5 knots to 30knots. Still Andrew found a way to put all that rain water to good use - he started scrubbing the decks - literally.

Today we arrive into Trondheim - we will research the weather but plan now to begin cruising what we have been told are some of the most beautiful areas of Norway - Helgeland and Lofiten. Though conditions no doubt are going to be cold and there will of course be rain we are very excited to be here.

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© SV Katherine 2018      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Isle Tabarca Spain